As soon as the year begins the infinite proposals from fashion come to light in the fashion capitals. This time we went to Pitti Uomo 93 to hunt some new designers, and it was not a surprise the bunch of brands you can discover right there; Pitti Immagine has always been on top when talking about menswear with Pitti Uomo and the 93th edition was not the exception. Every edition the numbers increase, more exhibitors and more buyers… there is no trade show as Pitti Uomo in the world with such a leadership adjudged by hosting fashion brands that dictate trends but also because its efforts of research and to always support emerging designers with a breathtaking beginning.
Due the distribution of the trade show, I went to rummage through the various sections that have diverse mission. So, here are the brands I choose from Unconventional, Guest Nation Finland and Open. Three designers from three different nations, let’s review them!
8on8 Studio – UNCONVENTIONAL
The luxury underground style is presented in this section, an enlarged space that welcomes the sporty fashion proposals with international and exclusive sets from an hyper-contemporary agender movement that expresses the dynamism of the youth subcultures.
8on8 Studio is the one I pick up from there. A brand founded by Li Gong with a core that crossover the traditional British tailoring over the every-day casual wear.
The designers graduated from Central Saint Martins is encouraged to achieve that ease of movements which shall inspire the comeback of classic tailoring into contemporary men’s wardrobes. With a clear focus on creative cuts and balanced proportions, 8on8 express a youthful yet subversive sensitivity, providing a new take on menswear tailoring which shall speak to a younger generation.
Rolf Ekroth – GUEST NATION FINLAND
Every year Pitti Uomo hosts one country to show up the best of its nation. This time Finland was chosen by Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery to be present and to display the most promising names on the Finnish fashion scene.
“Nineties rap meets sailing” was the base idea of this designer to found his collection. Rolf Ekroth graduated from Aalto University in Helsinki and after that the designer has only scaled successes, one after another: now he is one the most renowned brands of the nordic scene. In this collection you can see the reflection and nostalgy of his teenager memories – “I was inspired by the summer vacations with my parents when I was a teenager” he said, and in this occasion he launch a collection in collaboration with another finnish brand: Halti, collection that will definitely take him to the next level by offering a futuristic sportswear with a noticeable research fabric selection aimed to a urban-meets-nature lifestyle.
M140 – OPEN
“Beyond genders” is the anthem of this section. OPEN is the exhibition space for the latest generation of collections that overcome the stereotypes of masculine and feminine.
Edited to suggest a specific stylistic direction, here you find a unisex selection of experimental collections.
Founded in 2016, Stefano Ghidotti and Michele Canziani are the creative minds behind the italian brand M140, a brand that retrieve the classic men’s from the past and propose it again with a new vision that enriches it. “A contamination between men’s sportswear and classic style” is how they describe their style. They bend the rules in order to achieve a new balance between tradition and contemporaneity, its roots from a sartorial research came up by being combinated with the influences from art and architecture. With no doubt a sartorial brand with an avant-garde vision.